Anyone who's been into toy collecting
remembers the whole toy grading scale that was in place for decades.
Whether it was loose or in the package, there was a sliding scale
from 1-10 called the “C” scale. The “C” scale started at C10
which usually stood for dead mint in package, like you had freshly
pulled it from a factory case, and the scale slid down from there in
increments of .5 to (for lack of better terms) accurately describe
the condition of a figure. The same scale starting at C10 is used for
loose toys. C10 is used for toys that have the appearance that they
were just pulled off of a sealed card, complete with all weapons and
free of any dirt or stray markings. The scale slides down in the same
manner depending on loose joints, missing pieces or paint
missing/stray marks.
(This would be pretty darn mint C9 or so)
(this would not be mint. and the accessory is missing)
This scale was literally useless since
everyone has different ideas of mint on card or loose/complete or
card fresh. From years of working in the toy field, from sales to
stocking to eventually becoming a well trusted expert in the field;
I've seen people who will sit with a box of 12 case fresh figures and
look them over. Front and back, all five sides of the blister and
even the edges of the card to find the mint-est figure there was and
wouldn't touch anything that didn't pass the test. I've sold at comic
book shows and had people meticulously inspect a loose toy to
figure if the price marked was a fair price for the condition. Then
you have the people who live by the code and will try to barter their
way down trying to quote “C” scale to you, I unfortunately don't
speak these folk's language because my product is always priced to
sell (way below book price and so-called book price is something I
will discuss later).
(I swear those bozos are just this bad if not worse)
Then came AFA, the Action Figure
Authority. AFA took the “C” scale and made it something more
understandable. They started the scale at AFA 100 (speaking of which,
I've never seen anything get the AFA 100 seal of approval.) and go
down in increments of 5 to describe a toy's mint condition. This of
course is an exclusive right of passage only given out by the AFA.
For a varying price (solely dependent of the scale of the figure) you
can have any toy in your collection, loose or carded, “professionally
graded” by the crew at AFA. Part of your price pays for an acrylic
case and the certification sticker from AFA which for some reason
makes your figure worth more. How is it worth more? Just because some
3rd party who deemed themselves the authority on
professionally grading figures makes their word the same as God's
word? This seems like an unnecessary hoop to jump through, and
believe me people line up for the right. (Oh, by the way shipping is
a separate charge.)
("professionally graded" and it's only an AFA80)
(better grade on a loose figure, but it's pretty clean)
A little show in Orlando called FX was
my first experience with the AFA. This was back in the early part of
the last decade. Not only was I shocked at the price per toy, but the
line at the booth! Not just figures, vehicles, playsets and more. The
largest thing I saw at the table was the Kenner Ghostbuster's
firehouse playset and they'd “professionally grade” it as long as
he paid whatever exorbitant price they quoted. Unfortunately they
didn't have an acrylic case big enough but they'd ship it back to
their home office (at his cost) and have it sealed in a new large
case. Are these cases magical? Do rainbow spew from them? The answer
is no, all they do is allegedly protect your figure from dust and UV
damage. That's it, that and a sticker and your figure is worth up to
40% more than book price.
(that's a big fucking case for a big fucking toy)
Eventually, this crazy fell off like
most and as far as I know no one uses either scale. And you know what
kind of dealer you are dealing with if you ever hear AFA or “C”
scale quoted in an auction, show or flea market. Nowadays most of us
use mint, near mint, flawless, loose, played with, 3/$5 or dollar
bin. All of which are very visual terms that significantly describe
the condition of what you are buying.
(this is what a real price guide looked like, circa 1990's)
Book price was always the bane of most
toy collector's existence. If you ran across something at a show and
you thought the price was too much, the dealer would often claim
“book price” is around (insert price here). First of all, book
price doesn't exist in today's collecting world. I haven't seen an
official price guide issued since 2006 and the days of toy collecting
magazines (ToyFare, Lee's) are a thing of the past too. The toy field
is a liquid market, which means the price is often dependent on
current demand for the product. Someone may not think their Bucky
O'Hare figures are worth anything but something as simple as a blog
in high rotation, re-issue the cartoon series on DVD or even being
mentioned in a movie/TV show can up desirability of any line in a
matter of hours. Figures and vehicles that wouldn't sell for .99
cents and free shipping start closing out at five times over what
they originally cost at retail. Even blogs, like the one you are
reading, have had an effect on the desirability of a figure line.
(all extinct, circa 2011)
There is no book anymore and eBay is
good to use as a barometer but it's not the book. Just because it's
listed for BUY IT NOW (insert price here) doesn't mean it goes for
that. That's just some poor fool with delusions of grandeur, thinking
a closet full of toys is going to bring him into early retirement
just that much sooner. That man hasn't quit his day job and neither
should you.
(either still has a day job or my tax dollars are keeping them flush with Steel Reserve)
Awesome observations!
ReplyDeleteWell said it all should be based off percentage in the middle range of what people are bidding them for on eBay like how the grade comics...eBay buy it now price is bullshit most times
ReplyDeletevery well said...my argument is with the so called grader!!What if he / she are having a off day ??..does the item get a better or lesser grade ???
ReplyDeleteAnd the cost and artificial increases just because somebody somewhere thinks its a blah blah grade !!
I was thinking about it ...but I am no longer on that fence !!THANK YOU from WESTERN CANADA...my item in question is a VINYL CAPE JAWA w/ gun .
does anyone know where to get a AFA style case for loose GI Joes with file card
ReplyDeleteThis has always been my outlook on toy graders. Hell, I considered starting my own "grading" company to show how rediculous it is and profit off the fabrication of value. These graders are no different than TY was in the 90's with artificial values attached to Beanie Babies.
ReplyDelete